Wednesday, July 28, 2010
Fake Shure SM57 mics
Permanently avoid speeding tickets and Police stops!
There seem to be a number of people on ebay selling various guides/e-books/advice etc. on how to avoid speeding traps, prosecutions and other road traffic matters with simple steps. The majority are very cheap, so if you have bought one (or are thinking of buying one), you're probably not very much out of pocket if the information turns out to be garbage.
Unfortunately, the information contained within them is so hideously out of date (or just plain wrong), that the cost you're likely to bear is that the tips won't work and you will be prosecuted. At best, some of the info is just laughable, whilst others are dangerously misleading and will probably land you in more trouble. One of my personal favourites is the "be nice and polite to the officer" advice in the hope that you'll demonstrate what a fine upstanding citizen you are. If you need an e-book to tell you this, I really don't think you're smart enough to be driving on a road.
There is, however, a very simple driving technique that will prevent you ever being prosecuted for speeding, going through a red light or being harassed in any way. It is shockingly simple, and the police use it themselves. It is not illegal, and if an officer saw you doing it, they would not stop you or even bat an eyelid. I'm happy to share this info because everyone has a right to know it.
Firstly, though, it's important to dispel a few myths. As I said, some of the information sold as 'advice' is very poor will either fail or land you in deep trouble. Here are a few of the most common pearls of wisdom sold on ebay.
1) "Ask the officer when their speedometer was calibrated. If it wasn't that day, you're off the hook!" This info is about 10 - 15 years out of date. In the dark ages, officers used their own speedometer as evidence of speeding, and had to time their drive between two fixed points on a daily basis, in order to use this evidence to prosecute people. Today, virtually every traffic officer (the most likely candidate to prosecute you for speeding, as patrol officers tend to simply advise drivers about their speed) uses a VASCAR system which will be calibrated at the police garage by mechanics. It is not the officer's responsibility, and the checks are done religiously. Making smart comments about calibration will only help you if the officer is so stricken with laughter that he/she can't speak to you anymore.
2) "Never produce your documents at the roadside." There are many ridiculous reasons for this particular gem. Some seem to claim that the police will 'forget,' or not be bothered if they can't deal with it there and then, and others seem to think that you can confuse the police if they can't get your exact details (driving licence number, for example). If the police can access driving licence/insurance/MOT details from the roadside, why would this be a problem? They have been able to do this for a couple of years, which is probably how old this info is.
3) "Here is a sample letter to send that will prevent any prosecution!" Of course, the police and courts quake in their boots once they receive a generic letter saying how unfair speed cameras are. They then remove every GATSO in the force area to stop anyone else getting upset, and refund every penny collected in fines because of a single sheet of A4. This is the best-case scenario. The worst are the sample letters that lie about the conduct of the officer/positioning of signs etc. This is called "perverting the course of justice," which I'll cover next.
4) "This spray will last forever and make your registration plate invisible to camera, and it's invisible to the naked eye!" There's about 10% truth in this one. Yes, the film probably would last forever and a day in lab conditions, but that's not presumably where you'll be keeping your car. Your plate will actually be hovering a few feet above the road, getting covered in filth and environmental fumes (remember what cars emit?). You'll be lucky if the spray lasts a few months before it decays. As for being invisible to the naked eye, this is correct in daylight. Unfortunately, the whole point is that they reflect the light, so at nighttime your plateWILL show more dazzle than usual, and will stickout like a sore thumb to a half-decent traffic bobby. All it needs is strong light source (a police vehicle headlight, perhaps?), and it'll reveal itself as being tampered with. Whilst applying the spray itself isn't illegal, the moment it prevents you being prosecuted for an offence (say, being flashed by a speed camera?), this takes you into the territory of "obstructing police" or "perverting the course of justice," which HAS to be tried at a crown court. Somewhat more serious than a speeding ticket, then.
Of course, I can't possibly debunk all the rubbish published because of the sheer volume of it. Hopefully, by showing how wrong the main points are, you'll draw your own conclusions about the rest. None of the above is secret knowledge, and a bit of time on the internet will back all this up. Just think about it - if it were really this easy to avoid fines, why would anyone be paying them? The majority of these sellers are just after easy money for re-circulating the same garbage.
Finally, onto the driving technique to avoid prosecutions. As you can tell, I don't like any of these far-fetched quick-fix systems, so this is the only reliable method. Though it is simple, some people may struggle with it because it requires a new outlook on driving, so persevere and it will work. I have used this for over five years, and I have neverbeen prosecuted or even stopped by the police.
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DON'T DRIVE OVER THE SPEED LIMIT! IT'S THERE TO PROTECT PEOPLE FROM MORONS WHO VASTLY OVER-ESTIMATE THEIR DRIVING ABILITY AND THINK THEY'RE INVINCIBLE IN THEIR STEEL BOX. SHOW COURTESEY AND RESPECT TO OTHER ROAD USERS, AND IF YOU ARE CAUGHT SHOW SOME SPINE AND STOP WHINING ABOUT HOW IT'S ALL UNFAIR. IF YOU'RE MATURE ENOUGH TO DRIVE A POTENTIAL KILLING MACHINE THEN YOU'RE MATURE ENOUGHTO ACCEPT RESPONSIBILITY FOR YOUR ACTIONS.
Simple, isn't it?
Postal Scam, Please Read and Beware
card is posted through your door from a company called PDS (Parcel
Delivery Service) suggesting that they were unable to deliver a parcel
and that you need to contact them on 0906 6611911 (a premium rate
number). DO NOT call this number, as this is a mail scam originating
from Belize. If you call the number and you start to hear a recorded
message you will already have been billed 15 for the phone call. If
you do receive a card with these details, then please contact Royal
Mail Fraud on 02072396655 or ICSTIS (the premium rate service
regulator) at www.icstis.org.uk "If you find this information useful then please rate this guide
Fraud:Why do ebay not tell you about this?
I have only recently joined ebay as both buyer and seller. eBay have been very helpful in setting up my accounts and promoting their various projects, sites and marketing ideas (the best of which cost money). Yet I have had to search various, guides (see below), chat to friends and family and go online to discover any of the pitfalls that I may encounter and which others have encountered.
The fake product - never existed, no picture, vague description.
The misleading description - Bid 10 and recieve any one of the following a car, a boat, a pen, a tv. (you guess which?)
Buying feedback - "Buy a 10p for 5p and give me lovely feedback" In politics this is vote rigging Mr G W Bush!
Overseas accounts - they are like ships in the night and will pass out of sight once they have your money. Africa seems to be a favourite (god alone knows why?)
The concert ticket - Offer tickets for a date several months away. Bidder pays and you offer to post in 30, 60 or 90 days time. Either way when post never arrives and buyer complains the record of sales has been deleted by ebay and paypal on auto.
Double bidding - I bid 20p for your house. My friend bidds 1,000, 000, 000 for your house. Anyone else bidding is stopped by my friend's huge bid. One minute before deadline my friend cancels bid. I am left as max bidder! Yippeee a house for 20p - Bargain.
Postage twice my bid. Basically the seller is hoping you will not read or add up the Overall total of the item including p+p ie on Bid tv all items are 8.99 - why?: are they stored in a warehouse in outer Mongolia, or sent by winged couriers and dolphin express?
100% + feedback only because con man removed bad feedback as he offered refund to get rid of customer- Do you as a buyer want a full refund (A)or to leave negative feedback on a sellers record(B)? They are hoping you pick A.
I should point out to anyone attempting one of these that some are old and eBay are fully aware and very vigilant.
Ways to try to stay safe.
Ask seller to email you a pic of item and in pic a copy of a daily paper (like in kidnap movies!)
ask questions about item - What condition is it? Why is postage 2000 for a mobile phone, Why no reply to contact?
Read sellers / buyers feedback - How long have they traded, email there other customers, google products / reviews
Know the market - is this a gd price? is it too good?
Get Protection - credit card insurance, paypal, etc
How long a wait to be nice before neg feedback and complaints!
Always trust someone until you stop trusting them.Then tell everyonee about them.
For the record I love ebay, I like the auction format and that I have an item at the moment with no bidders but 5 people watching it! Should be an exciting last hour.Lastly I have not had any difficulties up til now BUT it would have been nice if ebay had automatically sent me a guide list with these few articles included or stressed the possible down side to buying and selling.
Can I suggest that we all, tick as helpful, guides like this one so they stay at the top of the list. I would be great if the top ten of guides were slight critiques of ebaying not simply pamphlets from ebay on its products or diary enties. Thanks. Good night.
http://reviews.ebay.com/fraud-and-scary-stuff-with-ebay_W0QQugidZ10000000002238850
http://reviews.ebay.co.uk/Buying-Guide_W0QQugidZ10000000002252202
http://reviews.ebay.co.uk/Scamfake_W0QQugidZ10000000002259128
http://reviews.ebay.com/Duelling-masters-Guide-Beginners-and-Parents-only_W0QQug
http://reviews.ebay.co.uk/Luke-it-is-your-destiny-P2_W0QQugidZ10000000002238590dZ10000000002249769
http://reviews.ebay.com/Xmas-is-solved-Gift-box-of-Yu-Gi-Oh_W0QQugidZ10000000002251265
http://reviews.ebay.com/To-buy-or-not-to-buy_W0QQugidZ10000000002228006
http://reviews.ebay.co.uk/Jaden-is-defeated-by-apos-Power-of-the-Duellist-apos_W0QQugidZ10000000002238524
http://reviews.ebay.com/How-rare-would-you-like-your-Trading-card-sir_W0QQugidZ10000000002249707
http://reviews.ebay.co.uk/Dummie-apos-s-Guide-To-Duelling_W0QQugidZ10000000002221985
http://reviews.ebay.com/Cyber-Stein-Igor-Stein_W0QQugidZ10000000002238816
http://reviews.ebay.com/Why-I-hate-Elastic-Bands_W0QQugidZ10000000002228056
http://reviews.ebay.com/Hanukkah-Hallelujah-Game-On_W0QQugidZ10000000002224560
http://reviews.ebay.com/Dummies-Guide-to-Yugi-Moto-apos-s-Favourite-Game_W0QQugidZ10000000002224407
http://reviews.ebay.com/If-only-they-Millenium-Items_W0QQugidZ10000000002238882
http://reviews.ebay.com/Dinosaur-apos-s-rage-A-New-Deck-Evolves_W0QQugidZ10000000002224053
http://reviews.ebay.com/Dummies-Guide-to-Duelling_W0QQugidZ10000000002228091
http://reviews.ebay.com/Bring-the-Popcorn-We-apos-ll-do-the-rest-for-a-perfect-xmas_W0QQugidZ10000000002249612
http://reviews.ebay.com/The-Next-Step-Building-a-deck-Parental-Power_W0QQugidZ10000000002201273
http://reviews.ebay.com/Surviving-Yu-Gi-Oh_W0QQugidZ10000000002200928
Brass Instruments - Accurate Identification.
Trumpet - Usually a soprano brass instrument with a larger proportion of cylindrical bore to conical bore. Modern trumpets have valves; natural trumpets do not. Most trumpets are built in Bb, butsome specialist trumpetsare built in C,D,Eb and Piccolo Bb etc. The modern Bb trumpet has approximately 4.5 ft of tubing (excluding valve tubing)
Cornet - A soprano brass instrument in Bb or high Eb invented in the 19th century as a valved development of the post horn. Itsinvention inspired developments in other brass instruments. Cornets differ from trumpets in having a greater proportion of conical bore than trumpets. This gives them a slightly warmer tone. British and French modelsare normally much shorter in construction than trumpetsand with a shepherd's crook at the start of the bell branch. The name cornopean is applied to early forms of the cornet. The length of tubing isthe same as that of thetrumpet.
Bugle - A conically bored natural trumpet used as a military signalling instrument. The bugle is a metal version ofa simpleanimal horn trumpetlike the ceremonial Hebrew Shofar.Military bugles are usually pitchedinBb.American bugle bands use a range of instruments with valves. The3-valve typesare theequivalent of bell-forward saxhorns, but mainly pitched in G. There are even bell-forward versions of the tubas (as described below) carried on the shoulder in the manner of a hod of bricks!
Flugelhorn - A soprano valved bugle in Bb mainly used in brass bands and for jazz. High Eb flugelhorns also exist on the Continent. Even mellower in tone than the cornet and trumpet. The length of tubing is the same as that of the trumpet.A German variation of the flugelhorn is the Kuhlo horn, which was 'designed' by Pastor Johannes Kuhlo for use in churches. It is almost circular in design and has a trumpet mouthpiece receiver and rotary valves.
Trumpet (left), Cornet (right)and Flugelhorn (below)
The Orchestral or French Horn (really a misnomer)is normally just referred to as the Horn. This is the modern valved orchestral development of the larger type of hunting horn known as the parforce horn. The small hunting horn known as the furst pless horn is more similar to the bugle. Most modern horns are double instruments pitched in F/Bb. See below. They are actually much longer in their basic tubing than similarly pitched brass instruments, some12 ft, as they are played in higher harmonics than most brass instruments, and are harder to play.They utilise a funnel-shaped mouthpiece and have 4 rotary valves operated by the left hand. The right hand is placed inside the bell. Single horns with 3 valves, and pitched in F or Bb are commonly used by younger players. The horn plays in the orchestra and the military or concert band, but not in the brass band.
Wagner Tubas in F or Bb are essentially relatives of the orchestral horn and played by horn players. Built in upright oval form, they have a much narrower bore than real tubas, and are played with funnel, not cup, type mouthpieces. They use rotary valves operated by the left hand (unlike superficially similar German style oval tenorhorns and baritons, which are right handed).Only used orchestrally. Not likely to appear very often on eBay!
Orchestral Double Horn (left) and Wagner Tuba (right)
Eb/F Tenor Cor or Mellophone - This is a development of the 19th century Koenig horn. It appears in a variety of shapes;like a large flugel horn or coiled like the orchestral horn. The horn-like version isnormally called the'tenor cor', and the bell-forward version, the 'mellophone' or even the 'mellophonium'.Thereare historical variants of the instrument referred to as 'ballad horn' and 'vocalhorn'.The instrument as a type differs from the saxhorn in having a proportionately larger, exponentially-flared bell more similar to the horn.Unlike the horn, the tenor cor has a much shorter length of tubing, the same as the tenor horn (described next), and is played with the right hand, not the left. The other hand is not placed in the bell during playing. The tenor cor is usually equipped with Perinet (piston) valves rather than rotary valves.It is sometimes used in the concert band instead of the French horn, or in marching bands, but it is notpopular in the U.K.3 valves and approximately 6-7ft of tubing (excluding valve tubing).
Eb/F Tenor Cor(left) and marching Mellophone (right)
Eb Tenor Horn or Tenor Saxhorn increasingly known as Eb Alto Horn to match up with American and European naming. The standard brass band tenor horn. 3 valves. Approximately 7ft of tubing (excluding valve tubing). Style varies considerably - see photos below. There are also some bell-front marchingversions resembling large flugel horns.
Eb Tenor Horn saxhorn style (left), and open wrap style (right)
Bb Baritone (Horn) or Baritone Saxhorn, the standard brass band baritone; more or less equivalent to the German Bb Tenorhorn (the latter is normally constructed in oval form). Usually 3, but sometimes 4 valves. Approximately 9ft of tubing (excluding valve tubing).Style varies in the same way as with tenor horns. The baritone has the same pitch as the two instruments below, but it has a lighter tone than the euphonium, closer to the trombone in sound.
Bb Baritone Horn saxhorn style (left), and open wrap style (right)
Bb Bass Saxhorn - largely obsolete, but still used in French military bands alongside the euphonium. Courtois still manufacture them with four or five valves. The now obsolete orchestral French Tuba in C is a six-valved version. The bass saxhorn resembles a compact euphonium, and has a low upper bow and a tuning slide between the leadpipe and the valve block. It is wider bored than the baritone. In sound, it lies between the baritone and the euphonium, and in a band tends to blend more easily with the woodwind than the euphonium. 3, 4, 5 or even 6 valves! Approximately 9ft of tubing (excluding valve tubing).Below centre.
Euphonium or Tenor Tuba, normally in Bb or Bb/F. The smallest of the tubas (see below), and wider bored than the saxhorns (see above).Most modernversions are constructed witha tuning slide beyond the valve block, creating better intonation. The euphonium produces a broader and mellower sound making it ideal as a solo instrument in the tenor/bass range. Standard in brass, military and concert bands; occasionally found in the orchestra. 3 or 4 valves. Some older models have 5 valves. Confusingly, 3-valve euphoniums in the USA are still usually called 'baritones'. Approximately 9ft of tubing (excluding valve tubing). Below right.
Baritone / Bass saxhorn / Euphonium compared
A German-style Bb Tenorhorn (left) andBb Kaiserbariton or Euphonium (right)in oval form
Tubas are wide bored versions of the lowersaxhornfamily. Bass tubas are built in F or Eb and Contrabass tubas in C or Bb. Double letters, e.g. EEb, tend to indicate large-bored instruments with extension down to the fundamental note. Standard in bands and orchestras.Tubas are simply referred to asbasses in the brass band. 3, 4 or 5 valves, and some 12 to 18ft of tubing (excluding valve tubing). Tubas vary greatly in form, some point the bell to the right and some to the left. Some have piston valves, othershave rotary valves. A traditional name for the bass tuba in Britain is 'bombardon', but this is rarely used these days.
Helicons and Sousaphones are coiled tubas which are carried over the shoulder and around the body. Really only marching band instruments. Sousaphones differ from helicons in having a 'gooseneck' angle near the top of the bell, and usually a very much larger bell.
Illustrations of Tuba (left), Sousaphone (centre)and Helicon (right)
Trombones need little introduction except to say that they are mainly tenors in Bb or Bb/F, or wider bored basses in Bb/F. Essentially a tenor trombone is a bass slide trumpet! The dual pitch trombones have additional rotary valve(s) operated by the left handas well as the slide operated by the right hand. Old brass band bass trombones were pitched in G, and the slide was fitted with a handle. There are smaller and rarerEb alto and even Bb soprano trombones. Occasionally trombones are fitted with valves instead of the slide. The old English name for the trombone is the Sackbutt. Renaissance sackbuttshave a narrow bore and a very small bell compared with the modern trombones.
Bb/F Bass trombone (left)and cimbasso (right)
The Cimbasso is a contrabass valve trombone, usually in F or Bb, and originating in Italy. Its pitch and range is similar to that of the tuba, but its tone is more strident. Usually 4 or 5 rotary valves. Not commonly used and infrequent on eBay.
Cornett - Renaissance lip-reed instrument constructed of wooden strips bound with leather and provided with 6 finger holes and a thumbhole to vary pitch. Usually constructed with a gentle curve to the right. Straight cornetts are called mute cornetts. The cornett produces a uniquely beautiful and delicate sound. The tenor cornett is called the lysard and has an s-shape double curve. Bass cornetts are serpents.
Ophicleide - This is the early 19th century keyed bass bugle, essentially a brass-built keyed serpent which filled the bass brass role until the development of the tuba, the instrument which superseded it. The so-called Russian bassoon or basshorn is an earlier stage in its development.
cornetts, serpent and ophicleide
What does it mean by Telescope/Spotting Scope 2-in-1?
A spotting scope is normally designed for terrestrial observations and is used in situations involving magnifications beyond the range of typical binoculars. It needs to be small and light enough so that it can be easily carried around. However, spotting scopes using the conventional refract objective lens normally have quite a long body size to accommodate the focusing requirement.
A telescope, on the other hand, is largely designed for planetary and deep sky observation, and is required to grasp more light at low lighting levels. Therefore, traditionally a powerful telescope would have a larger objective lens, with larger body size and heavier weight.
With a new technology, refra-reflect lens, it has now become possible to build a telescope which is not only powerful for long distance observation, but also has compact size so that it can be used as a spotting scopein travel, sightseeing and birding.
A typical example isthe Compact 26-78x78 Zoom Telescope/Spotting Scope, with the above-mentioned new design features.
It has a magnification range from 26x to 78x, an ideal range for observing targets which are located beyond the reach of normal binoculars. Its large 78mm fully multi-coated objective lens lets in more light through to the eyepiece, thus ensuring better imagequality over a long distance. Its refra-reflect objective lens makes the instrument much shorter, lighter and non-chromatic aberration than otherscopes which adoptconventional refract objective lens. The overall weight of the device is only 900g, and it'sjustabout 240mm long. These new design features makes the instrument ideal for sightseeing, bird/animal watching, hunting, and other long-range viewing during the day, as well as for observing stars and moon at night.
This new system is now available at: Longview UK, with more information.
Note: Adviceto the beginners using spotting scope/telescope:
Stabilise the instrument on the tripod provided. Please do not try to make an observation while holding the instrument by hand, as it can be quite difficult to view an object at such a high magnification power due to hand movement.
Set the magnification power to the minimum level 26x (by turning the Eyepiece Zoom anticlockwise).
Aim at a distant object (at least a few hundredyards away -the further the better), andadjust the Focusing Wheel until the image is clear.
Use the Eyepiece Zoom to enlarge the image as desired.
Some people use a pair of lower-power binoculars to locate the target first, and then use the higher-power scope to see the target details.
With some practice, youwill find the instrumentmore efficient and powerful.
uklongview
Important Royal Mail Last Post Dates B4 Christmas
Class - 16th DecFirst Class - 19th DecSpecial Delivery - 21st DecGolden tip!!The most important
thing I have learned from sending goods and delivery problems is that you should
deal with client issues as fast as humanly possible, make sure they feel like
you are endeavouring to get things right first time. Deal expediently with
problems and make sure that they feel they are getting great service!!Always
put things right ask the client what they want doing about a problem, this may
mean replacing damaged good, refunding or compensating where you feel its
due.I hope this guide helps you, I've also put on a link to my post
supplies and envelopes, please show your support buy buying my items.
My Packaging Supplies Best wishesTim
Unmounted Rubber Stamps
Here are a few different ways to mount and use unmounted stamps a beginners guide and also good info if you'd like to try a different methodGLUE STICK METHODI mostly use this method, it's quick, relatively inexpensive and easy to clean up afterwards.You can just stick your stamp to the block using Pritt Stick or any of the cheaper brands as you don't need it to hold permanently. Just add the glue, stamp, then wash off both glue and ink under the tap. Try stamping on top of a mouse mat it helps give a good clear image.USING DOUBLE SIDED TAPEApply strips of tape onto your mounting blocks. The tape can be left on the blocks if you store them on wax paper. Peel off the paper, stick your stamps on and you are ready to go.I have some broad double sided packing tape that i have used successfully for this method, I have been told it is similar to DS carpet tape which you can buy in Wilkinson's and will give a firm holdHALOS MOUNTING SYSTEM Mount your stamps onto the loop tape, cutting round carefully. Halos mounts have grooves into which the hook tape adheres, allowing you to easily add and remove your stamps.Halos loop tape does provide some of the cushioning you need for stamping, but again a mouse mat underneath your card when stamping can help, particularly for larger stamps. EZ MOUNT/KLING ONPeel the liner from the adhesive side of the foam and adhere to your rubber stamp.Closely trim the excess rubber and foam with a pair of strong, sharp scissors.Remove the paper liner from the other side, this exposes the static cling and can now be attached to your acrylic blocks.Stamps can be stored on commercially available plastic storage sheetsSTAMPING WITH LARGE UNMOUNTED STAMPSAny of the methods mentioned can be used for larger stamps but sometimes getting a clean image can be tricky. A good way round this is to place the stamp on your working surface, ink it up, then place the cardstock on top of the stamp carefully. Then take a large mount, which covers the whole of the stamp, and place that on top of the cardstock, you need to be careful not to smudge the ink at this point. Press down and you should have a lovely, clean image. I have also used a brayer to run over larger stamps too, which works well as long as you are careful not to run over the edge and get an imprint of the mount too!CLEANING UNMOUNTED STAMPSI mainly use baby wipes but make sure they are alcohol free, the cheap thin type in tubs are better than the thicker fluffy ones as they can leave fibres on your stamps.Baby wipes will not remove permanent inks such as staz on, archival or memories inks. For these you will need to use a permanent ink cleaner.Apply the cleaner to the stamp, leave it a short while to settle into all the grooves, then wipe it off with a baby wipe or a rub-it scrub-it pad, then pat dry on a pad of kitchen towel.If you have a particularly detailed stamp an old toothbrush can be used to scrub into the tricky areas.Happy Stamping
Buying from China/Hong Kong
There are loads of sellers from these areas, selling musical instruments (some branded), electronic equipment, 'artworks' etc. The Chinese adverts are often in poorly worded or quaint English, eg 'Most superb guitar will bring much happiness'. What seems most appealing are the very low prices, both on 'Buy It Now' and on previous auction sales. However, beware! The adverts are often very long and if you go right to the bottom you will find the postage charges which are astronomical. Some sellers also insist on postal insurance at extra cost. Recently, a buyer won an auction for a drum kit at 2.75! Postage and insurance to the UK were 750. The buyer failed to pay, and then lost their 100% positive feedback rating when the Chinese seller sent a negative. Some are more upfront than others, especially those from Hong Kong. Recently I paid 0.25 for an LED torch and 7.50 for postage which was made very clear at the top of the advert. The torch is fine, and an equivalent here would have cost me up to 10, so I'm not complaining.
I have no reason to doubt the legitimacy of some of these traders, though I do know from Ebay forums that some are selling counterfeit branded items. A recent buyer won a 'valuable jade pendant' only to discover it was, in fact, green plastic!Some of these sellers rely on catching people out who do not read all the small print on their adverts. They know it will be difficult, if not impossible, for the dissatisfied buyer to get money back, or a refund. I also suspect that when the feedback negatives fly in thick and fast, they simply re-register with another account name, selling exactly the same items with the same wording.The usual rules apply - if it looks too good to be true, then it is likely to be a scam of sorts. Take some time to track back through the seller's feedback ratings before you buy. You can see ifsomeone else has bought the product you'reintending to buy, and what their experience was.Hope this helps.
A Guide to Aircraft servicing issue and other problems
After every flight, pilots fill out a form called a gripe sheet, which conveys to the mechanics problems encountered with the aircraft during the flight that need repair or correction. The mechanics read and correct the problem, and then respond in writing on the lower half of the form what remedial action was taken, and the pilot reviews the gripe sheets before the next flight.
Never let it be said that ground crews and engineers lack a sense of humor.
Here are some actual logged maintenance complaints and problems as submitted by Qantas pilots and the solution recorded by maintenance engineers.
By the way, Qantas is the only major airline that has never had an accident.
(P = The problem logged by the pilot.)
(S = The solution and action taken by the engineers.)
P: Left inside main tyre almost needs replacement.
S: Almost replaced left inside main tyre.
P: Test flight OK, except auto-land very rough.
S: Auto-land not installed on this aircraft.
P: Something loose in cockpit.
S: Something tightened in cockpit.
P: Dead bugs on windshield.
S: Live bugs on backorder.
P: Autopilot in altitude-hold mode produces a 200 feet per minute descent.
S: Cannot reproduce problem on ground.
P: Evidence of leak on right main landing gear.
S: Evidence removed.
P: DME volume unbelievably loud
S: DME volume set to more believable level.
P: Friction locks cause throttle levers to stick.
S: That's what they're there for.
P: IFF inoperative.
S: IFF always inoperative in OFF mode.
P: Suspected crack in windshield.
S: Suspect you're right.
P: Number 3 engine missing.
S: Engine found on right wing after brief search.
P: Aircraft handles funny.
S: Aircraft warned to straighten up, fly right, and be serious.
P: Target radar hums.
S: Reprogrammed target radar with lyrics.
P: Mouse in cockpit.
S: Cat installed.
P: Noise coming from under instrument panel. Sounds like a midget pounding on something with a hammer.
S: Took hammer away from midget.
Classic Mini Knocks and Bangs
An ultimate engine steady is an after market device which is used as an additional steady device. They are around 27 and come in 2 different forms. One type for the 998cc/1100cc engines. And another type for the 1275/1300cc engines. You cannot use them on different engines so ensure you buy the correct one.
They fit to the right hand side of the engine bay. The base mounts onto the bulkhead and the engine end mounts to the thermostat housing. The base mounting uses the bolts which are located in the bulkhead already. The mini shells allowed the car to be built in Right hand drive and Left hand drive, therefore there is holes made on the opposite side for a brake master cylinder etc. The base mounts to the area where a LHD master cylinder would be located. The device uses a threaded bar and rubber bushes. Once fitted to the bolts, tighten up the bar so there is little play in engine movement. This should protect your carb/air filter and engine in case of a steady failing while driving.
Sub frame Mounts.If you believe the noise is coming from the floor pans and lower end of the engine then it could be possible that your subframe mounts require changing. The subframe to floor pan mounts located at the back of the subframe are made from rubber and can split. This means as you turn/drive/brake the subframe will be allowed to move. Replace these as soon as possible as this could cause you to crash or have an accident. Once again I recommend changing to Poly bushes or if you dont mind road noise, fit the metal (solid) type.
Testing
Raise the car using the subframe (flat area). Notice if the subframe comes away from the floor pan area where it mounts. You may see that the mount is still attached to the subframe or vice versa to the car. If the mount is split or damaged replace it asap. If not, you may want to upgrade anyway as this will improve the feel and comfort of the car.
Replacement
Jack the car up and support the subframe with axle stands. Lift the front carpets in the car for access to the bolts. Remove the bolts from the floor pan and remove any mounting left on the car. Now remove the rest of the mounting from the subframe end. Now that the old mounting is removed you can begin to fit the new mounting. Fit the mounting to the subframe. Once this is complete, you may need to remove the axle stand and support the subframe with the jack. Lower the Jack until the subframe mount meets with the floor. Support the car safely while you refit the bolts through the floor pan and into the new mount. You may need an assistant to hold a spanner while you fasten the nut up. Lower the car and give it a test. I would replace both mountings at the same time for safety reasons.
You can also replace the tower mount bushes and the front teardrop mounts. For more information and assistance try 'theminiforum .co .uk'
JackingWhen jacking your vehicle always refer to the manuels jacking points. In this case because its a Mini, NEVER jack the car using the sill or floors.
Always support your vehicle using axle stands when working underneath and apply the handbrake! Also chock the rear wheels with house bricks for added help.
Use a good level surface, not gravel/sand. And just use common sense.
Lithium battery capacity claims (e.g. Canon NB-2L)
Phase Converters - A Guide to TRANSWAVE Converters
TRANSWAVE Converters are manufactured by Power Capacitors Limited in Birmingham
FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS an A to Z of EXPLANATORY NOTES
21-day Money Back GuaranteePower Capacitors Limited (PCL) offers a 21 day no obligation money back guarantee (carriage excluded) on condition that the converter is returned to PCL in a state fit for resale. No handling charge will be raised.
3-Year WarrantyThe TRANSWAVE converter is covered by a 36-month parts warranty against failure due to faulty manufacture, further details of which are available on request. Extended warranties are also available on request.
BS EN ISO9001:2000 - Quality AssuranceWe believe that the TRANSWAVE Converter is the only UK converter manufactured in an ISO9001/2000 quality assured manufacturing facility. PCL was first accredited with a British Standard in 1996. Over 17500 units have been sold to OEMs, machinery dealers and end-users since 1984. The Company employs21 people in the UK and achieved an annual turnover in excess of 2.1 million in the financial year 2006/2007. The Company has been an accredited NICEIC contractor since 1982 and is a founder member of the British Capacitor Manufacturers Association (BCMA).
After-Sales SupportSales engineers are available on our Local Call Helpline from Monday to Friday 9am to 5pm to answer any sales or technical support issues.
Air CompressorsSmaller motors can be operated successfully usingthe heavy-duty/hi-torque static converters rated at 3kW, 4kW and 5.5kW. Otherwise a dedicated SMA converter can be used for compressor applications, independent of any other loads. Direct-on-line starting is essential. The use of a RT rotary converter is recommended for Hydrovane-style systems. In all instances please ensure that you advise the motor size and current rating before ordering.
Aluminium Bodied MotorsAluminium motors may not operate successfully in conjunction with static converters. We would recommend the use of a rotary converter to address this issue where necessary.
Brake Testing EquipmentThe use of a rotary converter is recommended for this application.
Car RampsEnsure that you advise the motor size, current rating and style of car ramp (electro-mechanical or hydraulic). Hydraulic ramps are generally more compatible with phase converters than screw-type ramps. Hydraulic ramps driven by motors up to 2.2kW can be operated successfully using the heavy-duty/hi-torque static converters rated at 3kW, screw-type ramps driven by motors rated at 2.2kW,3kW or 4kW typicallyrequire the heavy-duty/hi-torque stataic converters rated at 4kW or 5.5kW. Bear in mind that the power regulator switch fitted to the converter may have to be adjusted in line with a variation in load. Even though the ramp may have a 3 ton capacity mechanically, the artificial nature of the supply created by a converter may result in one power setting to lift a Ford Mondeo and another to lift a Land Rover. The operation of the equipment in conjunction with a converter may involve some operator discipline. The RT rotary converter may offer a more operator-friendly solution.
Collection or DeliveryYou are welcome to collect your converter from our Birmingham factory. Delivery charges reflect the use of third party carriers, either Interlink or International Forwarding. Remember that rotary converters are particularly heavy and will arrive either on a pallet or in a crate. You may wish to have more than one person available to accept delivery. Please endorse any palletised delivery unchecked when signing for the consignment.
Continuous Duty ApplicationsWe do not recommend the use of TRANSWAVE Converters for applications which operate on a 24hr/day continuous duty. For remote, non-operator controlled, cyclic-duty applications such as refrigeration compressors and pumps, the need for an on-demand supply is accommodated by a heavy-duty/hi-torque static converter. See refrigeration compressors and pumps below.
D.C. braking circuits (rectifier circuits) and lighting circuits (control transformers) There is more room for error connecting these circuits to a converter output than would be experienced on a mains three-phase supply. Two specific phases must be connected to these circuits, both on rotary and static converters. In some instances, particularly woodworking applications, a wiring diagram of the braking circuit would be helpful as it may be necessary to modify the control wiring of the machine to ensure that the braking circuit is connected to the same two phases as the starter control circuit. This ensures the successful operation of the brake/light. Failure to identify the need to modify the circuit or connecting to the wrong phases could lead to malfunction of the braking mechanism or light.
Frequency ConvertersAvailable from Power Capacitors Limited. See separate guide.
Heavy-Duty/Hi-Torque Converters when should I consider them?Standard specification static and rotary converters operate the vast majority of applications successfully. However there are instances where additional starting performance is required for atypical applications such as electro-mechanical screw-type car ramps where the plated motor current suggests a higher short-term kW demand than stated on the motor plate. Similarly on engineering equipment there is often a requirement to start mechanical speeds in excess of the synchronous speed of the motor. A standard specification rotary converter will invariably only start a 1:1 ratio of motor to geared speed, particularly where there is a direct-drive rather than a clutch-assisted start. For example: the Harrison M300 lathe is driven by a 3hp 1400rpm motor but has a top mechanical speed of 2500rpm. The standard specification converter is likely to achieve only 10 of its 12 mechanical speeds; however the heavy-duty version will achieve all 12. Please do not hesitate to seek further advice from the companys sales engineers if you are unsure as to which size of converter is suitable for your application.
Inverters (often referred to as Variable Speed Drives)Available from Power Capacitors Limited. See separate guide.
Multi-Motor applications (e.g. Edgbanders, Shoe Repair Machinery) and multi-operator environmentsThe rotary converter is the most appropriate solution for these examples as it automatically adjusts in line with any variation in demand or sequence of motor starting. If considering the use of a static converter, sequential starting (large followed by small) is necessary and a power regulator switch will have to be adjusted in line with any variation of demand.
Multi-speed motor? Frequent stopping/starting?It may be prudent to consider the use of a rotary converter for these applications. Otherwise a pilot motor may be required with a static converter if the magnetic characteristics of the motor do not lend themselves to the creation of a satisfactory artificial phase. Motors with 720rpm and 960rpm windings may prove problematic. When using the standard static TRANSWAVE converter with multi-speed machines, care should be taken to ensure that the motor comes to rest before effecting a change of motor speed or rotation. Failure to do so could damage the motor and/or the converter. Please do not hesitate to seek further advice from the companys sales engineers.
Output VariationsAllstatic and rotary converters are fitted as standard with a 5-pin 3-phase neutral and earth socket offering the facility for both 415-volt and 240-volt control requirements. A 16A or 32A plug is supplied free of charge with the converter as a loose item. The IP44 SMA static converter is typically offered with input and output terminals for hard wiring. This facility is available on other converter styles on request.
Payment by Credit/Debit CardNO SURCHARGE IS MADE FOR PAYMENT BY DEBIT OR CREDIT CARD (e.g. MasterCard or Visa). We do not accept payment by American Express or Diners Card.
Printing Machinery Machines without an inching facility can be operated directly from a suitably rated static converter. Applications requiring an inching facility must be operated in conjunction with a rotary converter to avoid electrical damage to the motor windings. Japanese printing machines (e.g. Ryobi) often incorporate 200 volt three phase motors, connected to a mains supply via a three-phase 200/415-volt transformer. To ensure successful operation of the machine, the use of a rotary converter is recommended, together with a means of isolation between the converter output and the three-phase transformer.
Produce Conveyors, Grading and Potting EquipmentCare should be taken to ensure that the TRANSWAVE converter rating is high enough to enable the motor to start under a load condition. Be wary of multi-motor applications where it may be necessary to consider a rotary converter or to ensure that one motor is running constantly to allow fractional horsepower ancillary motors to switch on and off at will. Other solutions to minimise this impracticality are available using individual capacitor circuits. Motors sized below the minimum loading of the converter will be damaged if operated independently from any converter other than the rotary. Please seek further advice from the companys sales engineers if unsure as to which converter to order.
Pump applications (slurry/dirty water - irrigation/clean water), aerators and mixers Most installations of this nature are controlled remotely, rather than via an operator. The majority of converters manufactured for this type of application are of the Heavy-Duty/Hi-Torque static style or the custom-built SMA-style. The recommended converter rating is determined by the duty cycle of the motor - i.e. cyclic or continuous - the application, motor current, power rating and speed. On-site commissioning by a PCL engineer or qualified electrician is recommended; technical assistance is available if required.
Refrigeration CompressorsSmaller motors can be operated successfully using the Heavy-Duty/Hi-Torque static converters. Otherwise the use of a dedicated SMA converter is usually recommended for compressor applications, independent of any other loads. For motor sizes in excess of 2.2kW/3hp the fitting of an off-load valve is advisable. Direct-on-line starting is essential. The use of a RT rotary converter is recommended for Hydrovane-style air compressors. In all instances please ensure that you advise the motor size and current rating before ordering.
Shock-Load applications (e.g. Guillotines
Carport Price Matrix
Below is a Price matrix for a Timber Supported Car Port/Pergola using our 10mm Borg with Brown Snap down Glazing Bars, Plastic F Sections, Buttons, Sheet Closure and Delivery to UK Mainland. Surcharge for Highlands
Ticket Touts-Oasis Concert
Buying an MGF
The truth about dual
Intel
Wessex Teak - getting your money back
Buying bits and Tuning tips for GTti
PLEASE BE AWARE THEHEAD GASKET KITS BEING OFFERED ON EBAY ARE INFERIOR QUALITY. FROM WHAT I CAN GATHER THEY APPEAR TO BE MADE IN CHINA BY "KING SEAL"! I HAVE HEARD OF ONE ONLY LASTING A MATTER OF WEEKS.
After a few recent GTti items i have spotted being sold on Ebay, some fetching silly over the top money,I thoughtit's worth a quick guide to help you decide what hot and what's not when it comes to Tuning upGTti's.
These cars are easy and cheap to tune-up, but because knowledge is often fairly limited and performance parts are scarce, people tend to get carried away when a unusual item appears on Ebay...often claimng big power increases.
First of all,
Throttle body. Recently there was one being sold which had been mirror polished up inside, and it claimed a power increase of 3-6bhp! The only way you will gain worthwhile power increaseis if the throttle body is bored out to 39mm, and a new butterfly is made to fit. Just polishing alone would hardly do anything and certainly you wont notice any real gain.
Another more involved optionof upgrading the standard throttle body further, you can go to 42mm internal, but this involves cutting the original neck off, boring hole to 45mm, making new neck to fit, and a butterlfy flap. But worthwhile.
You may have heard of some peopleusing a throttle body from another car (Toyota MR2 Mk1 is similar looking but much bigger). This wont work very well using the standard ECU, the airflow into the engine will be so different to standard. But its something to consider doing if you change the ECU to a programmable one (or a piggyback such as E-manage)
DRS Ecu's....
These appear every so often, andI sold mine last year for a fantastic price. Be aware that everyDRS i know of (apart from the one i had) is a 1 bar / 15psi DRS, In other words it ismapped to run about 15 psiboost pressure, many will still have a safety fuel cut but set at just over 15 psiinstead of the standard ecu's 12.5psi.
These offer about 30-40bhp gain over a standard GTti, and they simply plug in just like standard ECU. However you won't really be able to re-tune it easily for even more poweras there is no software or computer hook-up cable available to remap them.The chips insidecould be removed and read by a chip EPROM reader/Writer, butthis means you cannot tune theDRS whilst car is running on a dyno. So it wouldbe a longwinded process.
Also,you can get just the same amount of power for very little money byraising the boost to 14/15psi, and using a Fuel cut defender to defeat the standard ecu safety cutout.These are often hated as its seen as a bit of a bodge..but in reality if the car is setup well it should be perfectly OK if you can set the boost to 14/15psi and not be tempted to raise it up further!
The DRS i had was a little different in that it was mapped to suit more boost (18psi), and also came setup to run with a new uprated MAP sensor. This gave it about 50-60bhp gain over a standard car.
DAD ecu's (Dawson Auto Developments)
These are a UK modified standard ECU used on the old Uk rally GTti's, similar to the DRS butthey seema little more crude.They tend to be setup to run very rich fuel mixtures (for engine safety)so i would not suggest running one for everyday road use.Heavy fuel consumption and even black smoke is likely.
The Greddy e-Manage piggyback (blue version) is a great easy way for proper tuning, and once installed will have far greater scope for tuning than a DRS or DADecu, and for much less money.
You can adjust fuelling and ignition timing via a laptop and installation is really easy, about 8-10 wiresT's intothe standard ECU harness and its ready to go! The car will start and run identical to standard until you start to play about with the setting of the e-manage, so there is no problem driving the car to a tuners/rolling road to be setup.
Air filters / Induction kits...for max power the golden rule with a turbo engine is to fit the biggest free flowing air filter you can manage to fit under the bonnet!Thereare so many brands / shapes and sizes out there.
The latest Stainless Steel Mesh type flow the best, although filtration quality is not as good as cotton or standard paper,
K
Ebay Watch Scams
How to prepare tiger nuts for fishing.
As we all know tiger nuts are awesome for carp fishing. However they are banned in a lot of places for very good reasons. Tiger nuts if not prepared correctly can cause lots of damage to livestock. It is essential that you prepare your tiger nuts the correct way so you do not cause any damage.
Before i explain how to prepare them it helps to know a little bit about these little nuggets of goodness for the fish:
Tiger nuts are not actually a nut, they are infact a tuber or part of a root found over 4000 years ago!
In Spain it is very popular and is known as Chufa. It is one of two major species of the nutsedge genus Cyperus found as a weed in the tropics and subtropics on all types of disturbed soil. Its close relative Cyperus rotundus (purple nutgrass) is a severe problem weed in Florida.
The genus name Cyperus is from Cypeirus, the ancient Greek name for this genus. The species name esculentus is Latin and means edible.
Tiger nuts have been cultivated both as a livestock food and for human consumption of the tubers, eaten raw or baked.
The tubers are about the size of peanuts and are abundantly produced. Eaten raw they make a very acceptable snack and have a flavour and texture reminiscent of coconut.. They can be rehydrated by soaking before consumption and even softened further by boiling.
Tiger nuts are rich in oil which can be extracted for culinary and industrial use. "Horchata" is vegetable milk made with Tiger nut juice which is very popular in Spain.
In Spain it is very popular and is known as Chufa. It is one of two major species of the nutsedge genus Cyperus found as a weed in the tropics and subtropics on all types of disturbed soil. Its close relative Cyperus rotundus (purple nutgrass) is a severe problem weed in Florida.
The genus name Cyperus is from Cypeirus, the ancient Greek name for this genus. The species name esculentus is Latin and means edible.
Tiger nuts have been cultivated both as a livestock food and for human consumption of the tubers, eaten raw or baked.
The tubers are about the size of peanuts and are abundantly produced. Eaten raw they make a very acceptable snack and have a flavour and texture reminiscent of coconut.. They can be rehydrated by soaking before consumption and even softened further by boiling.
Tiger nuts are rich in oil which can be extracted for culinary and industrial use. "Horchata" is vegetable milk made with Tiger nut juice which is very popular in Spain.
Tiger nuts come in two forms, small ones and long ones (there is latin names which i cant remember!)
When people dry the tiger nuts they can take up to 3 months to dry out correctly this is why it is essential you rehydrate them.
How to prepare them:
First off take your tiger nuts and put them in a bucket, tube etc it must be big enough to take the tigernuts and then enough water to cover them all. Leave them to soak for 24 hours. you will notice that they swell slightly, this is a good sign.
Once you have waited 24 hours, put the nuts water and any extra water into a saucepan, you now need to boil them for at least 30 minutes. When they are boiling you can add some sugar if you wish,
Once they have boiled and cooled down you can use them straight away or you can do what i do, take the tiger nuts drain them and then put them into a air tight box, put this box in a dark warm place, preferably outside of the house.
After a few days you will notice they are fermenting and starting to get a sticky syrup over them abit like golden syrup, well after a week like that they will be really gooey and smell very sweet ideal for carp!
You can also put them in a blender and grind them down in to small chunks for a lose feed. With tiger nuts once you have prepared them either use them straight away or put them in the freezer.
London Red Buses : Routemaster,AEC,Daimler,Leyland ....
This is one of many illustrated classic London Bus guides I've created for the community. I hope you enjoy it. If youwish to find out more about the classicLondon Red Bus and Routemasterart featured in this guide please click here.
This guide features classic post-war London Red Buses, such as the legendary Routemaster.
RT - AEC Regent
The original RT design was completed by 1937 at Chiswick works and the first complete bus entered public service on 9th August 1939. Between 1940 and 1942 a total of 150 production models entered service. After the war the RT was updated and a further 4674 RT plus 1631 RTL and 500 RTW derivatives entered stock between 1947 and 1954. A programme of RT withdrawals began in the 1950s, starting with the pre-war type followed by the non-standard Cravens-bodied RTs. From 1958 onwards the standard RT and RTL vehicles were sold, at first those with the oldest chassis. RT withdrawals became a slow process however, with spare parts shortages and the unreliability of new vehicles leading to a reprieve until as late as 1979.
RF Type - AEC Regal
The RF type was introduced to service with London Transport in 1951. An operating fleet of over 700 with MCW bodies on the AEC Regal chassis, with a number of body variations gave "stirling" service until withdrawal in March 1970. All RFs had front entrances, which enabled them to be converted to one-man operation with thirty-nine seats in 1964. Referred to as the Regal Mark IV by the manufacturers, the model was fitted with an AEC 6-cylinder under-floor engine and fluid flywheel. Construction was semi-integral, with the body mounted on a series of outriggers long the chassis length.
RLH Type - "Low height" Regent
Another member of the RT family was the RLH type, which was a group of seventy-six buses divided into two classes, 1RLH and 2RLH and constructed on the standard AEC Regent Mark III chassis with 9.6 litre engines. Dating from 1950 to 1952, the RLH was designed for routes with low bridges and featured the Weymann low-bridge body. Mainly used on country routes, some appeared in red livery although LT policy was not to operate this type of vehicle unless absolutely essential as the sunken gangway on the offside of the vehicle made collection of fares difficult from the bench seats holding four people.
RM Type - Routemaster
The advent of the Routemaster was probably the greatest step forward in bus design, not only in London Transport's history but for the bus world in general. The first prototype Routemaster went into service in London on 8th February 1955. This bus seated sixty-four passengers and was a joint development specifically for London conditions by London Transport, AEC and Park Royal Vehicles. By the 1980s these buses were still providing the backbone service in London. Severely criticised when first introduced, the Routemaster justified its high initial cost, remaining part of London's landscape for over forty years.
MB Type - AEC Merlin
The Red Arrow "standee" bus had a capacity for seventy-three passengers with only twenty-five seated and appeared on special London Transport routes in April 1966. Based on the AEC Merlin chassis the vehicles were 11 metres (36ft) long by 2.5 metres (8ft 2 in) wide. The body was constructed by Metro-Cammel-Weymann and utilized an EAC horizontal diesel motor. As part of LT's envisaged conversion to one-man operation at a flat fare, the MBA's (Red Arrows) were joined by MBS's (Country and Central standees) and MB's (Centrally fully seated), taking the total fleet to 665 vehicles.
DMS Type - Daimler Fleetline
The DMS type started in London in 1971 as one-man operated double-decker, based originally on the Daimler fleetline. Subsequently, after Daimler commercial vehicles were incorporated into the Leyland organisation, the vehicles were based on the Leyland B20 chassis with Park Royal or Metro-Cammell-Weymann bodywork. Engines were Gardner 6LXB 10.45-litre or Leyland 0.680 11.1-litre. On the upper deck there was seating for forty-four with twenty-four seats below. Additionally there was provision for twenty-one standing passengers. The overall length was only 9.3 metres (30.5ft) but the width was now 2.5 metres (8ft 2 1/2in).
LS Type - Leyland National
In 1969 there was the new development of a bus jointly produced by British Leyland and the National Bus Company. Called the Leyland National, the first appeared late in 1970. there were two basic models, one 10.3 metres (33ft 11in) with a laden weight of just over 13tons, seating 36 and the other a longer version 11.3 metres (37ft 2in) long seating 52. A distinctive feature of the vehicle was the raised roof at the rear, which contained ventilating and heating equipment. The engine was turbo-charged and mounted horizontally under the floor at the rear. London Transport gave the Leyland National the type letter LS and the first one entered service in 1973.
BL Type - Bristol LH
By 1974 the RF fleet was reaching the end of its economic life. The authorities would not sanction the used of the 8ft 2in wide SM type vehicles on certain routes so if these routes were to continue it would be necessary to purchase some 7ft 6in wide vehicles. The Bristol LH was made in various lengths and the 30ft version with its planetary gearbox was chosen for the task. Ninety-five were ordered being fitted with the Eastern Coachwork body to their standard design incorporating 39 seats. By April 1977 all RF vehicles had been withdrawn, except for a group of 25, worked from Kingston Garage, replace by Bristol LH vehicle designated BL in the LT fleet.
T Type (B15) - Leyland Titan
The first production Titans (T class) were delivered in August 1978, and following the customary period of staff familiarisation and training, they entered service the following December. Fitted with 66-seat (22 downstairs, 44 up) Park Royal bodies, the Titans were powered by Gardner 6LXB engines and featured a relatively low flat floor-line in the interests of passenger comfort. Unfortunately, production of the Titan was hardly underway when Leyland announced the closure of the Park Royal Vehicles. The first batch of 250Ts were completed but thereafter production was transferred to Leyland's Workington plant and deliveries were interrupted. Production of the Titan ceased in November 1984.
Thank you for reading my guide and I hope you found it interesting!
Non Paying Bidders. CCJ's
Why buy Japanese vinyl records?
Don't get caught out by undated 20p Ebay scammers
Please beware of scam sales of undated 20p coins.
I have just seen today several listings saying "undated both sides like picture" on reading the description carefully it became obvious you would receive 2 ordinary 20p coins worth 40p yet 2 of the listings sold for over 60. If the buyer had checked the seller's feedback s/he would of seen other buyer's had fallen for the same scam.
Follow these simple rules to stay safe.
Do not buya coin/slisted as undated on back or undated on front. The only collectable one's are undated to both the front and back! If they are not undated on the front and the back they are just ordinary 20p coins you already have in your pocket.
Read the listing very carefully before making any bid whatsoever, so you know exactly what you are getting!
Don't just see a photo of the coin and place a bid without reading the listing carefully. The photo may have been cut and pasted from a genuine listing with a "rare undated on the back" or "front" scammer's description.
There are more scam listings than genuine so take care to read thoroughly before bidding!
READ, READ and READ again and stay SAFE.
Sky Hd customers using a single satellite feed
In the past with a standard satellite set up you have only needed one feed from your sky dish lnb to your satellite box to enjoy the benefits of sky television.Then in 2003 sky plus was born were you could record, pause, rewind and fast forward recorded programmes saved on the sky plus internal hard drive, The only downside was a twin output lnb (Nowreplaced by quad LNBS)required fitting and an extra cable needed run to the box as the box required two lnb inputs so you could watch one thing whilst recording something else on another channel.When sky Hd was created the technology of the sky plus box was used with the box in the same way except for the addition of sky hd with extra outputs available on the box but the principles were still the same, for the box to work and record properly you still required two lnb inputs.This was all fine and well in a house but it become a problem for any body living in a block of flats served from a communal satellite system.generally all that would be available would be a single satellite feed ( To keep installation costs and equipment costs low) in each flat connected to a multiswitch somewhere that was served by one satellite dish some where on a rooftop and nine times out often landlords or property companies would not allow an extra cable to be taken to the multiswitch or cable ran outside along a wall as it would be extra cost andcould become an eyesore if everybody wanted itand multiple cables were to run round the front of a nicely finished building! therefore it wasapain for any body owning a sky box or a sky Hd box as they could only use dish input 1 on the box and generally if they wanted to record something they had to sit and watch it.Global comms made a device called an sps1 smart priority switch as shown below (now defunct but production has reportadely started again)
This was a handy device that gave flat owners and single feed users a bit more flexibility with their sky and sky HD boxes but still had limitations to it.The single lnb would connect to it then you would connect a fly lead to outputs a and b and connect these to dish inputs 1 and 2 on your box.Another lead would connect to the scart out on your sky box to power the unit and depending if the sky box was on or off would prioritise one of the outputs, Usually when the sky box was on, output A would have priority and when it was in standby then output B would have priority but this was still somewhat of a nuisance and people would still end up with failed recordings.Therefore after much debate and forums posted on the web the engineers at sky must of taken some notice and have decided to build a new feature in to there updated epg (electronic programme guide) called single feed.I have not yet been able to try this out yet but when my own epg is updated then i will try it and post out the results, I do know that selecting the single feed option disables the sky anytime oad service as this requires the two tuners to operate, one for viewing and one for downloading but i dare say there will be a way round this.Currently the single feed method is only available to sky HD customers so sky owners will have to put up with limited features on there sky boxes or go out and buy a sky HD box, Perhaps this is clever marketing and money making by sky!!.The good thing though is that flat ownerswho have sky HD with asingle feed will be able to nowhave more features on their boxand be able to enjoy all the full features of sky television.To enable single feed mode just read my guide below:
Single feed users
( ONLY AVAILABLE TO SKY HD USERS WITH THE NEW EPG)
First make sure you are using single feed, check the back of your sky hd box and you will find that there will be only one cable connected to the dish input and that dish input 2 will be vacant
Press services on your remote control, "options" in the top will be highlighted orange
Press the right arrow once and highlight "Settings" in the top menu
Now press down once and go to the middle menu and highlight "picture"
Press "0,1, SELECT" on your remote quickly, This should highlight the setup box within the hidden menu
Now scroll down to the single feed mode
Press the right arrow once to switch single feed mode on
Now press the green button to save your settings
If you have done it properly you will get a message on screen saying "Your sky box is ready to be rebooted and selecting this option disables sky anytime"
Now press "Select" and the box will go into standby and will reboot itself (This should take a few minutes to complete ) Once done you should be able to use your sky HD box as normal for recording etc giving you extra features which you didnt have before.
Hope you find this guide helpfull and please take a moment to rate it after you have finished.Please check out my other guides coming soon, All the best Ade.
Instructions: How to use Yarn Swift and Ball Winder?
How to use Yarn Swift and Ball Winder?
Yarn Swift and Ball Winder are best knitting accessory for you to wind skein yarn to ready-to-use ball, save your time and make your ball winding neatly and easily. Below are 7 quick tips for your reference to use these cool gadgets.
1) Before place yarn on the swift, untie the skein and make sure both ends of the yarn are free from the skein as well as no twists in the skein.
2) Place your skeinFirstly, put your skein at the center part of the folded yarn swift
(Umbrella Yarn Swift that has been folded) Secondly, push up the knob at the bottom of the shaft to expand the umbrella together with the skein. Adjust the swift to hold the skein in place, and then twist the bolt to hold the arms in that position.
Thirdly, fix the swift to a table edge with the clamp-on base at the bottom. Please make sure to attach the swift to the table firmly since it may spin too quickly to wobble.
3) Fix the ball winder on table edge the same as yarn swift and ensure your two device 12-18 inches apart (or as you required) for the handle and swift easily turning.
4) Our swift can holds skeins up to 103 inch, and it is adjustable for different skein sizes. Screw the knob-like part of the swift to your desired circumference and then lock it into place, make sure that the knob is tightening firmly.
5) Nextly connect the yarn to the winder: slip the yarn onto the ball winder plastic cone by threading the metal shaft, and then secure the yarn end in the slot of the plastic disk. The metal shafts of ball winder can be swiveled to cooperate with yarn swift.
(You can also refer to the details of its usage instruction in our package)
6) Now that everything in place, you can begin to unwind the yarn from the skein and wind it back into a ball. Slowly turn the crank at the back of the winder in the direction come with the winder.
7) The finished yarn ball for quick and easy knitting
How to store yarn swift and ball winder?
Yarn swift is made of wood and each umbrella arms is tied with hemp rope, keep it away from exposure to sunlight and humidity environment. When the swift is not in use, fold it like an umbrella and store it in plastic bag to prevent it from weathering.
For proper care and good storage, you can also put it back to our inner package.
BMW X5 buyers and owners guide by micrabits
FAKE LINKS OF LONDON FROM LINKSOFLONDONSTORE.CO.UK!!
I bought a links of london sweetie bracelet and 18c white gold and diamond charm from this online company only to find that having spent almost 150 the 2 items were obviously fake.
There are no hallmarks on either item and the 'diamonds' are nothing more than black chips of something.This was bought as a gift for my mumand I am gutted that I have been left inthis situation. The company have no contact details on their website other than an email address if you wish to return anything.I emailed them the same day my items arrived asking for a postal address so i could return them but this has been going on now for 8 days and the still no address. They claim that the items are genuine and seconds from the factory and respond to my concerns by tellingnot to worry about it. I have found them to beextremely evasive about providing return details and I am now at the stage where they have told me that they will not supply a return address until I can prove to them that the items are not genuine. Given the appalling disregard for my concerns and inability to allow me to return itemsI am wary that even if I did get a return address they would keep the items and my money and I'd be left with nothing.
The moral of the story is don't buy from linksoflondonstore.co.uk. 3 weeks ago I was excited about the arrival of the bracelet and charm but in the 8 days since they arrived I havefelt disappointed in the questionable quality of the goods, angry at the shocking customer service, stressed outthat they have my personal details and stupid that I allowed this all to happen for the sake of saving a few pounds.
THIS COMPANY IS BASED IN CHINA,SHIPS FROM CHINA AND ARE ONLY CONTACTABLE IF THEY CHOOSE TO BE. THE GOODS ARE NOT GENUINE BUT YOU WILL BE CHARGED GENUINE LINKS OF LONDON PRICES. DON'T BE FOOLED!!! IF YOU WANT GENUINE ITEMS DON'T GET RIPPED OFF LIKE ME, BUY FROM THE GENUINE WEBSITE!!!
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Laird (Lord) and Lady titles. Buying land in Scotland
Do NOT fall for the 'Own a Square Foot Plot of Land in Scotland and you can call yourself a Laird' scam.
Your guide to not being ripped off.
Since the start of eBay we have seen a number of companies springing up, attempting to sell worthless plots of land in Scotland on the premise that you can call yourself 'Lord' or 'Lady'. To
help potential victims ensure their land sale is not a scam, we have
written this guide to the actual Law in Scotland, and we point out how to avoid being conned.
Where is your 'plot':
In the UK, we have Ordnance Survey maps. The law states that the land should be
sufficiently described to enable him to identify it by reference to the Ordnance Map
That's fine, but where does the 'land' you are purchasing actually get registered?
NOWHERE!
Section 4 (1)(b) of the Act states that the land will not need to be registered if it is:
land which is a souvenir plot, that
is a piece of land which, being of inconsiderable size or no
practical utility, is unlikely to be wanted in isolation except for the
sake of mere ownership or for sentimental reasons or commemorative
purposes
So, to be clear:1. If you buy the land, the sale is not registered ANYWHERE.2. If it isn't registered anywhere, what is to stop the seller selling the same plot again and again to different people, a little bit like the Timeshare scams we saw in the 1980's and 1990's?
3. Can you change your Passport? No.
4. Can you change your Driving Licence? No.
5. Can you change your Bank Details? No.
HELP!
Don't worry. We have set up a 24-hour helpline for victims of these scams. You can call us on 0871 426 6979 to discuss what happened.Thanks for reading,
Buying Bundles, avoid the rubbish!
Buying bundles of children's clothing can be soft on your pocket and the enviornment if you use common sense and caution.
Firstly, silly as this sounds, read the description carefully. Make sure you understand exactly what is in the bundle. Look for clear pictures of what is included, along with basic description of the items. We always state if there is anything other than the most minor of marks (ie something that just won't be seen when the item is worn, but you may just about be able to find with close inspection under excellent lighting conditions). Look for sellers that state any specific damage.
Some brands definatley wear better than others and we sell a lot of second hand children's clothing. Brands we've found to avoid are Primark (Girl to Girl, Denim