Yamaha Thundercat YZF600R Guide to buying Servicing

The Yamaha YZF600R Thundercat
The Yamaha Thundercat was released in the UK in 1996 and was made to take on the mighty CBR 600 in the battle of the 600's.

Nower days the Cat has been overtaken by the new 600's from other manufactures (CBR600RR/GSXR600/R6/600Ninja etc) and was replaced by the YZF600 R6, but although this happened the Thundercat was still produced until around 2003 in the UK.

For a newcomer to the 600 market I found the new bikes where to razor edge for what i wanted and also because i take a passenger on the back i found the newer models lack the comfort and large seat the thundercat has to offer. The thundercat also had good fuel econ and the ability to go touring on with many after-market parts.

The thundercat is a good bike to own and engine wise is very very reliable due to the forged pistons and uprated con-rods within the engine. Most Thundercats can be capable of doing over 50,000 miles without major problems engine wise.

Other Technical Specs of the YZF600R Thundercat

Engine I/c DOHC, in-line four 599cc
Power 94bhp @ 11,500rpm
Torque 48.4ft-lb @ 9500rpm
Chassis Steel Deltabox, with steel swing-arm
Dry weight 187kg
Seat height 805mm
Fuel capacity 19 litres (4.2gal) (200mile tank range) Aprox 16-19 a full tank (at today's fuel prices)
Tyre Front 120/60 ZR17
Tyre Rear 160/60 ZR17
NU Insurance 14

Before you buy a thundercat you must look at the following issues before you release the hard earned money from your pocket.

1. Check the downpipes, All thundercats had a problem with rusting downpipes. These can be replaced with stainless steel downpipes, but at a cost of around 200. The pipes may be slightly rusty at a glance but, if you look closer, where the downpipes attach to the end can, there is an area of welding where water can hold, causing them to rust through. Thus an MOT failure! Also while your at it start the engine and listen for rattling from the top of the engine. Cam chains noise will make it sound like a noisey sewing machine and could be due to the cam chain tensioner failing (which are cheap to buy) or the chain itself failing. Which would be a major overhall issue. (not cheap if done with a garage)

2. Rear swing-arm. These also have a problem with rust and can rust all the way through if they are a high mileage bike or kept outside.

3. Paint work. What is the Colour of the bike? General colours are...
A. Blue with white decals (most recent)
B. Silver top fairing and yellow belly with yellow front mud guard.
C. Red top fairing black intermediate and white lower with red rear
D. Black, mat black lower fairing
E. Black with silver decals
F. Red top, red intermediate, White rear end and black lower
G. Black top , silver rear and middle and orange lower with orange mudguard
H. Cherry red all over
I. Darkish blue upper, Silver lower and silver rear
J. Silver front upper, middle silver black and rear silver bottom with black rear

Generally if the bike is different from the colours above it could be either crash damaged or could have been painted differently by the owner so be careful and ask questions if it is different, or do some colour research. Also look out for bikes with no decals, as these could be resprayed bikes. (Original decals cost lots of money and cheap ones fade in the sunlight)

4. Brakes. These can be liable to rust. check how good they are by testing them. they should be sharp and not drag or make a noise, or be spongy.

5. Second gear? Ride the bike hard in second, does it jump out of gear? If it does it means it is worn and cost a lot if you cant do it yourself.

6. Fork seals. Check to see if the forks are leaking at the front, do they return to normal after a push or do they feel bouncy or make noise? if they feel bouncy it could be due to a leak. 100 a fork leg if done by a garage.

7. Most important of all, check to see when it was serviced. (if you are buying one, make sure it isn't about